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| Remote Cruising North of Cape Caution
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March 29, 2006
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While most Northwest boating cuts off at the top of Vancouver Island (or further south), the Central and Northern B.C. Coast lure those with the time and boat for more remote cruising. Queen Charlotte Sound, with its reputation for rough seas when the wind blows, serves as a natural barrier, or "gate" as the Waggoner calls it, to more northern cruises. Here are a letter and response about this area.
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Bob,
We bought three guide books for our trip up the coast last summer. We were away for two months, and made it as far as Shearwater, with Vancouver, B.C. as home. Your Waggoner was far above the other publications that we brought with us. It was open constantly for reference, and I must say my wife and I were impressed with the information provided. The book was very helpful and accurate.
We plan to go back to the Central and Northern B.C. Coast in June and I'm curious about a comment a cruiser sailboater said to me at Shearwater. He asked where we were headed and when I said that we had planned to go only as far as Shearwater and then back to Vancouver, he took a couple of steps back and said that it really just starts here (at Shearwater). I kind of felt awkward and didn't say anything.
With your experience in that part of the coast and beyond, is there something that I'm missing? Other than the towns along the way is there cruising beyond Shearwater that is a must see? Places like Ocean Falls may be okay for some, but I wouldn't go all that way to see a town that has that kind of character. Of course I've not been there, but it is likely similar to others that we have seen. My interests are of the wild side of the coast, not necessarily the tamed side. Well, perhaps you can see what I'm after and hopefully you may have a few comments.
Mike Pray
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Response
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Hi, Mike,
In a way, the sailboater you talked with was right, although I think he overstated it a little. Shearwater and Seaforth Channel are a convenient turnaround point, sparing you the possible challenge of crossing Milbanke Sound on your way further north.
The Inside Passage (some call it Interstate 5) does get more remote after you leave Shearwater. Between Shearwater and Prince Rupert the only villages or stopovers are Klemtu, 40 miles away, and Hartley Bay, about 110 miles away. Oh, and Butedale, between Klemtu and Hartley Bay. But Butedale is pretty primitive. There are, of course, many anchorages.
Just north of Klemtu, you can go west through Meyers Passage into Laredo Sound, where you definitely will be in remote country. If you work your way around the islands out there, I guarantee you won't have that closed-in feeling. Be careful, though. The outer islands are not well charted, and help is far away. The east side of Laredo Sound is well charted, but don't go to the islands out west if you don't have the boat and the skills.
South (or rather west) of Shearwater, in Queens Sound you can find as much adventure as your little heart desires. You can stay out there all the way down to the Spider Island area north and west of Hakai Passage. Carry the latest charts. At all times, be sure you know exactly where you are, and where the rocks are. These waters have no patience with, or sympathy for, the unskilled or inattentive.
Don't be so quick to dismiss places such as Ocean Falls -- and, I suspect -- other settlements. Part of appreciating this fabulous cruising area is meeting the few people who live there and carve out lives far, far from the city. Plus, you'll get local knowledge that will expand your exploring.
Ocean Falls is not just another little town, by the way. The empty 7-story hotel alone makes it special. And if you continue up Dean Channel you'll see where Sir Alexander Mackenzie ended his cross-continent trek in 1793. Farther up the channel, Eucott Bay, with its hot springs, is beautiful and welcome. If you continue around King Island into Burke Channel you'll find miles of spectacular scenery. We are awestruck by it.
Cruisers return to the waters north of Cape Caution year after year without getting bored. The area is remote enough to be out on the edge, yet close enough to city services to be safe. With regard to preferring the "wild side," remember the advice about not going to sea in search of adventure. For if you go to sea. . . .
Regards,
Bob Hale
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