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For 15 years, publisher Bob Hale was the Northwest representative for Bruce Anchors. Here is a question we received on bow rollers, and Bob's advice:
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Sept. 7, 1999
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Looking for a suitable mount for 16.5 lb Bruce anchor. Looked at a Windline BRM-2, which is not satisfactory as there is no ready way to pin or hold the anchor in the holder. Any suggestions as to what is available in the market?
--Ben Wilkins
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Response
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If the Windline won't work as-is, I don't know of any off-the-shelf alternatives that might. You could drill a hole through the cheeks of the Windline bow roller and a matching hole in the shank of the Bruce and put a pin through. Be sure to use high-quality drill bits and lots of cutting oil. The stainless steel of the bow roller work-hardens as it's being drilled. Once you start, don't stop. Depending on the size of the pin, you might drill pilot holes.
The Bruce anchor itself is made of very hard steel, so you'll need good bits and more cutting oil. It would be best if you have access to a drill press for both bow roller and anchor. Otherwise, use a slow-turning heavy-duty drill motor, with a handle on the side so you can bear down on the job.
An easier approach, if it works on your boat, is to use a bungee cord or length of line to pull the anchor back against the bow roller. On our previous boat, a Tollycraft 26, I used a length of 1/8-inch braid, dead-ended on a conveniently-located bow cleat. Our present boat is a Tollycraft 37 with an anchor windlass. I use a black rubber tie-down, the kind truckers use to hold tarps on trailers. I hook one end in the clevis that connects the chain and the anchor, stretch the tie-down around the chain gypsy, and hook it in the chain. Hard to describe but it's simple and it works. As mentioned above, the idea is to pull the anchor back, tight against the bow roller. Done right, the anchor won't move, even in heavy seas.
--Bob Hale
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